🍒 rear dropout dimensions - Bike Forums

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The wheel is secured by placing the axle in the frame or fork dropouts, loosely The skewer is typically installed so that it is on bike's left side, with the acorn nut Skewer diameter: For most standard road and MTB bikes, the wheel hubs will.


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Modern bikes usually rely on a quick release skewer to clamp the hub in the dropouts, and voila - you can roll around on your bike (I'm taking the.


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Traditionally, frames and forks had slotted dropouts. The hub axle, which was 9mm in diameter and mm (front) or mm (rear) wide, rested.


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I have a frame with mm rear dropout dimension inside to inside. I want to use quick release Hubs with this bike and need new axles my question is I see.


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The KICKR bike trainer is compatible with most modern road bikes and calipers or a ruler to measure the distance between the inner surfaces of the dropouts.


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Modern bikes usually rely on a quick release skewer to clamp the hub in the dropouts, and voila - you can roll around on your bike (I'm taking the.


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Modern bikes usually rely on a quick release skewer to clamp the hub in the dropouts, and voila - you can roll around on your bike (I'm taking the.


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The wheel is secured by placing the axle in the frame or fork dropouts, loosely The skewer is typically installed so that it is on bike's left side, with the acorn nut Skewer diameter: For most standard road and MTB bikes, the wheel hubs will.


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A fork end, fork-end, or forkend is a slot in a bicycle frame or bicycle fork where the axle of a An older derailleur-equipped bicycle with horizontal dropouts can be readily The most common screw size for the adjustment screws is M3.


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Check for parallelism after spreading a frame or fork, or whenever you are concerned that forkends might be out of parallel -- if the bicycle has been crashed, a forkend is visibly bent, or a wheel is hard to install and an axle nut or quick release feels "springy" rather than clamping down tight. Conversely, if you're installing a wheel in a wider frame than it was meant for, adding the spacers to the left side will allow you to increase the strength of the wheel by moving the rim to the left. Also see our article about disc brakes for information on disc-brake issues. In practice, however, there's a fair amount of latitude in fit. With most internal-gear hubs, spacers can be added on the left end of the axle, and with some also on the right, as described on the page that gives their overlocknut distances. This is the case with forks of older Raleigh three-speed bicycles and many older French frames. This gives 5. The process is commonly referred to as "cold setting" which is a fancy way of saying bending the rear frame apart so that it is wider. As long as you have 2 or 3 mm sticking out on each side, that's plenty. When in doubt, measure! In practice, the axle can be quite a bit shorter than this For single-sprocket wheels, it is generally best to add equal spacers to each side. Older frames designed for touring or recreational riding are often considerably more comfortable and pleasant to ride than many modern frames that have been optimized to appeal to racers. Minor adjustments for symmetry can be made with a rubber mallet. An internal-gear hub or sealed-bearing hub is very likely to be damaged if the dropouts are not parallel. If your frame or fork is made of aluminum or carbon fiber, do not attempt to re-space it: these materials are not suitable for "cold setting. Revised by John "Parallel" Allen. Testing for symmetry of a front fork is more difficult than with the rear of a frame. Having to spring the frame every time you replace the wheel is inconvenient, especially if it has a quick-release axle. This is most commonly done to widen the spacing, to permit the use of a cluster with more sprockets than the frame was built for. Older frames have room for wider tires, and for fenders, making them more practical for those who are not just fair-weather cyclists. Measure the spacing to see if it has changed. A piece of 2 x 3 or 2 x 4 lumber, roughly feet long works well for this: Remove the wheels, fenders and any seat-tube mounted bottle cage. To be sure that the wheel itself is centered, turn it over and try it the other way. Turn the bike over, and repeat for the other side. If you're not sure whether your frame or fork is steel or not, the easy way to tell is to see if a magnet sticks to it. Better-equipped bike shops have jigs to align fork blades. If not, you'll need to go back to levering with the lumber to correct any error.{/INSERTKEYS}{/PARAGRAPH} Spreading a frame or fork will cause a slight change in the angles of the forkends, so they will no longer be exactly parallel to one another assuming they started that way. If you're going up more than one size, say from to , or from to , you should definitely cold set the frame. This frame has a spacing of mm. If you don't have experience with wheel trueing, this may be a job you're not yet ready for. If your frame or fork is made of steel, you can change the spacing to accommodate different hub spacing. In fact, when the first mm 8-speed hubs were introduced, they had locknuts with beveled sides, so that you could "spring" apart the rear triangle of a frame made for the then-standard mm spacing. Procedures for checking and adjusting parallelism have been moved to another page. Accessories Bicycles Parts Specials Tools. Pull the string taut, making sure that it's contacting the same part of each forkend Use a ruler to measure the distance from the string to the side of the seat tube where they cross. This precaution is usually unnecessary, but it might be a good idea if you are making a major change in spacing. Probably the easiest way is to use a lever. If the spacing is as desired, and the string test is correct, you're almost done. One of my own bikes is set up with the axle cut off flush with the locknuts, and even this is no problem in use, though it is slightly trickier to align the wheel when installing it. A conventional cup-and-cone hub tolerates some bearing misalignment, and in general, you can safely go up one size in spacing this way, just springing the frame apart. Overall axle length for quick release hubs is commonly 11 mm longer than the overlocknut distance listed, 5. Lay the bicycle on its side with the handlebars turned to face upward If you are unsure about the strength of attachment or tubing at the chainstay or seatstay bridge, you might clamp them together with supports made by drilling a block of soft pine wood and then sawing it in half along the middle of the drill hole. A front fork can't be spread the same way as the rear of a frame, because you can't lever against the seat tube. Note, if you're not careful, you can do serious damage to your frame or fork this way! This requires special tooling beyond the reach of the home mechanic or small bike shop. In this case, cold setting is the better way to go. Hubs with conventional threaded axles can be adjusted for wider spacing by adding spacer washers, preferably between the cones and the locknuts. If you are increasing the spacing of a derailer-type wheel for the purpose of increasing the number of sprockets, you'll generally be adding space to the right side only. This way, the rim remains centered in the frame. You could also run the string to the opposite side of the head tube from each dropout and loop it around, to reduce the spacing from the seat tube. The rim should be the same distance from each fork blade after being turned over. Take this measurement on both sides. See my page about my fixed-gear mountain bikes. The page on chainline of internal-gear hubs gives overlocknut dimensions of these hubs. If the spacing hasn't changed, try again, pressing a little bit harder. This can be done with a hub axle, placing axle nuts in between the fork blades. Run the string around the front of the head tube and back to the other rear forkend, as in the photo. The problem of disk brakes' pulling the hub out of the front dropouts see James Annan's article has been addressed with through axles, which insert into a fork with a hole rather than a slot at the end of each blade. Assuming that a frame was built straight to begin with, alignment can be checked by comparison of the rear triangle with the front triangle. Internal-gear hubs are available with more speeds. While drivetrains have improved, frames have not, and in many ways, they've changed for the worse! Repeat until you get a result, applying a bit more force each time, until the spacing has increased by about half the total amount you are seeking. It is important that both forkends be equally far from the centerline of the frame or fork, otherwise the bicycle won't track properly. This article tells you how. A bike shop checks symmetry of a front fork with its special jig, but symmetry can also be checked roughly by installing a wheel into the fork and testing whether the rim centers between the fork blades. Ideally, the frame alignment should be made using a special fixture that clamps the frame by the sides of the bottom bracket shell, and takes those faces as the reference point for all other measurements. I can't give you an absolute guarantee that this won't cause damage, but the odds are very much in your favor. The String Method: Tie a piece of string to one rear forkend so that the string runs along the outside of the forkend. If in doubt, try the magnet test: if a magnet won't stick to it, don't try to re-space it! Press down gently on the lumber where it crosses on top of the seat tube. There's one fly in the ointment, however Often, the answer is "no," because newer hubs are wider, with longer axles, than the older ones. Park makes an adjustable gauge for this, the FAG-2 , and this is what most bike shops would use. If it does, the frame is steel, and can be cold set. It should be the same on each side. A bicycle frame and fork should match the wheels that are to be used in it. Older bicycles used narrower spacing, but older frames can often be spread out to match more modern wheels. This makes for easiest wheel replacement. This is a bit slower than using a purpose-built gauge, but gives good results, if you are reasonably careful. Ideally, the frame spacing should exactly match the hub spacing. Generally, the front fork is spread by pulling the blades apart from one another. Fine adjustments may be made with a rubber mallet. If you do this, you'll need to "re-dish" the wheel, by pulling the rim to the right. The usual "home mechanic" technique, however requires nothing more than a piece of string and a ruler. As of , fatbikes and disk brakes have led to a several new axle-length standards. Older frames, assuming they're made of some sort of steel, can be modified to fit. Then again, you may have an older bike that you've just become sentimentally attached to If you have a beloved older bike, but are not enjoying its antiquated shifting system, it isn't unreasonable to upgrade it with a new rear wheel, derailers and shifters or internal-gear hub. The lumber should extend out past the rear end of the frame. An older front fork also may need spreading to fit a modern hub. Insert the lumber through the rear triangle, so that it goes underneath the upper rear forkend, and above the seat tube. You don't actually need nearly this much, so for respacing hubs to wider spacing, if you're not adding more than, say, mm of spacers, you don't need a new axle. But you don't need to take no for an answer! The downside of this is that pulling the rim to the right increases the tension difference between the left and right spokes, resulting in a somewhat weaker wheel. Axle Length Typical quick-release axles are 11 or 12 mm longer than the spacing of the hub locknuts. {PARAGRAPH}{INSERTKEYS}Over the last 40 years, bicycle drivetrains have improved immensely. There are a number of ways to do spread a frame.